Lv cruise 2023

Nicolas Ghesquière doesn’t play when it comes to the locations of Louis Vuitton’s cruise shows. The French designer has taken his runways everywhere from the then-abandoned TWA Flight Center at JFK Airport to the Nitero Museum in Rio de Janeiro. But for Ghesquière, the location of Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2023 show on Thursday night took the cake. The designer had perfect timing for the magnificent view of the sunset at the Salk Institute in San Diego, a Brutalist biological research hub designed by Louis Kahn in partnership with Dr. Jonas Salk, the man behind the first safe and effective polio vaccine, in 1965. The long pathway showcasing a vista of the Pacific Ocean also happened to be a perfect temporary runway.

This season, Ghesquière envisioned the Louis Vuitton woman as something of a goddess. The glimmers silver and gold found throughout the collection—including on the skateboards toted by models like Binx Walton—reflected the sunlight, creating an ethereal glow around some models. Others resembled warriors with armor-like silhouettes that were heavy on top. Here, everything else you need to know about the spectacle.

Photo by Phillip Faraone/WireImage via Getty Images

Photo by Phillip Faraone/WireImage via Getty Images

Photo by Phillip Faraone/WireImage via Getty Images

The guest of honor wasn’t a celeb.

No disrespect to the front row VIPs, but Ghesquière most cherished the company of someone—or rather something—else. “The guest of honor for the show is the sun,” he told Vogue. “The elements are invited.”

The front row played host to an Apatow family reunion.

Director Judd Apatow may have stayed at home, but his wife and actor muse, Leslie Mann, and daughters Maude and Iris didn’t need him to steal the show as the most stylish family in the front row. Naturally, they all wore Louis Vuitton. Mann’s gold trousers glittered in the sunlight, while Maude, who stars on Euphoria, and her up-and-coming sister Iris both went with short hemlines that showcased their knee-high leather boots.

Iris Apatow, Leslie Mann, and Iris Apatow attend the Louis Vuitton cruise 2023 show at the Salk Institute in San Diego, California on May 12, 2022.

Photo by Phillip Faraone/WireImage via Getty Images

The Apatows were hardly the only celebrities in attendance. As usual, longtime friend of the house Léa Seydoux came through, along with Bridgerton’s Phoebe Dynevor and The Worst Person in the World Renata Reinsve. Joining them was Deepika Padukone, the brand’s newest and first-ever Indian ambassador.

Léa Seydoux and Gemma Chan. Photo by Phillip Faraone/WireImage via Getty Images

Emma Roberts and Miranda Kerr. Photo by Emma McIntyre via Getty Images

Deepika Padukone. Donato Sardella/Getty Images

Phoebe Dynevor. Phillip Faraone/WireImage/Getty Images

Olympians took the runway by storm.

The musician Lous and the Yakuza led a parade of models who included fashion week vets Julia Nobis and Sasha Pivovarova and two notable newcomers to the catwalk: the track and field star Dalilah Muhammad and skier Eileen Gu, both of whom are Olympians. The latter was fresh from an appearance at the Met Gala, where she also wore Louis Vuitton.

Delilah Muhammad walks the runway of the Louis Vuitton cruise 2023 show at the Salk Institute in San Diego, California on May 12, 2022.

Photo by Jerod Harris via Getty Images

Model Lauren Wasser was a metallic vision.

But the star of the runway was arguably Lauren Wasser, a double amputee who has long raised awareness about toxic shock syndrome. The model went with head-to-toe metallics with a silver coat and shorts that showcased her gold prosthetic legs.

Photo by Patrick T. Fallon via Getty Images

French fashion house Louis Vuitton showed its 2023 cruise collection of shimmering armour-like silhouettes at the brutalist Salk Institute designed by US architect Louis Kahn.

The Louis Vuitton show took place at sunset on 12 May at the Salk Institute for Biological Studies in La Jolla, San Diego County, California.

Lv cruise 2023
The cruise show took place in the plaza at Louis Khan's Salk Institute

Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director of Louis Vuitton, explained that he selected the brutalist building as the location for the show because of its "extraordinary setting" overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

"The Salk Institute has been a place of wonder for me over the years and Louis Kahn's stunning brutalist architecture against this extraordinary setting of the Pacific Ocean and the California sunset provides me with endless inspiration," said Ghesquière.

Lv cruise 2023
Ghesquière chose the institute for its extraordinary setting. Photo is by Elizabeth Daniels, courtesy of the Getty Conservation Institute.

Models emerged from the western edge of the Salk Institute's courtyard against the golden horizon and walked between six rows of seating that lined the length of the space for its 650 guests.

"The sun is the guest of honour in the Cruise 2023 collection," said Louis Vuitton's show notes. "It plays an active part in the evolution of this wardrobe where changes in temperature set a stylistic tempo."

Lv cruise 2023
The show featured futuristic and ceremonial-style silhouettes

The collection was informed by the Californian landscape and featured desert and water sports-like cuts, which were paired with natural materials such as linen, silk, and tweed.

Juxtaposing materials were blended to create futuristic yet archaic silhouettes.

Lv cruise 2023
The collection was informed by the Californian landscape

Graphic bomber jackets, metallic fabrics, and embellished garments shimmered against the concrete setting as models walked through the golden concrete and sunset.

The show ended with a trio of oversized sculptural metallic bolero's which were lined in shimmering fringe.

The 2023 show setting follows the now tradition of Louis Vuitton cruise and resort shows taking place at some of the world's most iconic architectural locations.

In 2017 Vuitton showed its 2018 cruise collection at IM Pei's Miho Museum in Japan, while Oscar Niemeyer's MAC in Niteroi, Brazil was used as the setting for its 2017 collection.

Lv cruise 2023
Models walked around the Salk Institutes River of Life

Named after Jonas Salk, the American medical researcher who developed the first polio vaccine, the Salk Institute was completed in 1965

It contains housing, medical laboratories, offices and research facilities in a pair of six-storey symmetrical concrete buildings, which flank a travertine courtyard that contains a central stream of water. The building was restored in 2017.

Kahn is one of the 20th century's most celebrated architects who is known for his brutalist and monolithic buildings. In 2021, plans to demolish part of Kahn's Indian Institute of Management Ahmedabad were withdrawn after international criticism.

Elsewhere in the US, a large pride flag was covered across the steps of the Kahn-designed Four Freedom State Park in New York.

Photos are courtesy of Louis Vuitton unless stated otherwise.

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